Pembroke College

Pembroke is one of those Oxford colleges that most visitors walk straight past, which is a pity because it's a handsome place with a good story. Founded in 1624 by James I on Pembroke Square (just off St Aldate's, opposite Christ Church), its most famous alumnus is Samuel Johnson, who spent a famously unhappy time here before dropping out — too poor to continue, though the college now proudly claims him. J.R.R. Tolkien was a fellow here, and the college's modern connection to literature remains strong.

The old quad is attractive if not spectacular, with 17th-century buildings that have a warm, lived-in quality. The chapel was remodelled in the 18th century and has good woodwork. But Pembroke's real recent transformation is its ambitious modern development: a new quad designed by architects that opened the college up and added much-needed space. The contrast between the cramped medieval core and the light, modern additions is actually quite interesting if you have an eye for architecture.

What makes it special

The Samuel Johnson connection alone makes Pembroke worth knowing about — there's a portrait in the hall and his rooms are still identified. The college's location, right next to Christ Church but receiving a fraction of the visitors, means you can explore it in peace. Pembroke also has a well-regarded college bar (according to students, at least), and its position near the river and Christ Church Meadow makes it a natural part of a south-of-the-High-Street circuit.

Visitor info

Pembroke is on Pembroke Square, a few steps from St Aldate's and Christ Church. Visitor access varies — the lodge is friendly, so ask if in doubt. Check the college website for current hours. No admission charge. The square itself is a pleasant, quiet spot to pause even if the college is closed. Walk through to the back for views towards the meadow.