All Souls College

All Souls is the strangest college in Oxford. It has no undergraduates, no taught postgraduates, and no student accommodation. It is a pure research institution — a college of fellows only — and gaining entry requires passing what is widely considered the most difficult examination in the world. Candidates face a gruelling multi-day process that once included the infamous one-word essay (past subjects: "water," "innocence," "novelty"). The result is a small, select community of scholars and a college that feels more like a private club than a university institution. It is also, from the outside, one of the most beautiful buildings in Oxford.

What to look for

• The Hawksmoor Towers — The twin Gothic towers on the High Street skyline are Nicholas Hawksmoor's masterpiece and among the most recognisable landmarks in Oxford. They were controversial when built in the 1720s — Hawksmoor's muscular Baroque Gothic was unlike anything else in the city — and they still look slightly otherworldly.
• The Codrington Library — If you manage to get inside, the Codrington Library is an impressive room. A vast, cathedral-like space designed by Hawksmoor, filled with rare books and busts. It is not routinely open to visitors, which only adds to the mystique.
• The Sundial in the Front Quad — The medieval front quad is intimate and beautifully proportioned, with a famous sundial on the chapel wall. The chapel itself contains original medieval glass.

Visiting

All Souls is not a normal visiting college. It opens for limited hours (typically weekday afternoons, 2-4pm), and access is restricted to the front quad. You cannot wander freely. Check the college website for current arrangements. A good free view is from Radcliffe Square — the towers are clearly visible from there. If you happen to be in Oxford during Open Doors weekend (usually September), All Souls occasionally opens more of its rooms.