All Souls College

All Souls is unlike any other college in Oxford. It has no undergraduates, no taught postgraduates, and no student accommodation. It is a pure research institution, a college of fellows only, and gaining entry requires passing an examination widely considered among the hardest in the world. Candidates face a gruelling multi-day process that once included the infamous one-word essay (past subjects: "water," "innocence," "novelty"). The result is a small, select community of scholars and a college that feels more like a private club than a university institution. From the outside, it is also one of the city's most striking buildings.

What to look for

• The Hawksmoor Towers — The twin Gothic towers on the High Street skyline are Nicholas Hawksmoor's masterpiece and among Oxford's most recognisable landmarks. They were controversial when built in the 1720s — Hawksmoor's muscular Baroque Gothic was unlike anything else in the city. They still look slightly otherworldly.
• The Codrington Library — If you manage to get inside, the Codrington Library is an impressive room. A vast, cathedral-like space designed by Hawksmoor, filled with rare books and busts. It is not routinely open to visitors, which only adds to the mystique.
• The Sundial in the Front Quad — The medieval front quad is intimate and beautifully proportioned, with a famous sundial on the chapel wall. The chapel itself contains original medieval glass.

Visiting

All Souls is not a normal visiting college. It opens for limited hours (typically weekday afternoons, 2-4pm), and access is restricted to the front quad. You cannot wander freely. Check the college website for current arrangements. The towers are clearly visible from Radcliffe Square. If you happen to be in Oxford during Open Doors weekend (usually September), All Souls occasionally opens more of its rooms.