OxfordLocal

The Old Bookbinders

A tiny Jericho backstreet bistro serving French-inflected food in an intimate setting.

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food gastro-pub wine cozy local

The Old Bookbinders is tucked away on Victor Street in Jericho, a residential side road where you wouldn't expect to find a restaurant, let alone one this good. It's technically a pub, but in practice it functions as a small French-influenced bistro that happens to have a bar.

The space is intimate — perhaps a dozen tables — and the menu is short and seasonal. The cooking is confident and unpretentious, with French classics done well: confit duck, steak frites, tarte tatin. The wine list favours French bottles, naturally, and is well chosen at every price point.

What to order

The prix fixe menu is excellent value. The steak frites is a reliable benchmark. For pudding, whatever the kitchen is making that week — the desserts are consistently strong. The French house wines are perfectly good; splash out on a Burgundy if the mood strikes.

The vibe

Intimate and quiet. This is a date-night pub, a birthday-dinner pub, a place you take someone you want to impress without being flashy about it. Booking is essential, especially on weekends — the room is small and word has got around. The word is out on this one, so book ahead.